Stag hunting in France

Our weekend in Normandy began Friday night when we arrived at the Chateau de Sarceaux in Valframbert. A grand chateau on beautiful lawns, it is owned and run by Marquis and Marquise Gicquel des Touches. A little like a French Downton Abbey, tho' the staff is a little more manageable, just the Marquis and Marquise! They made us feel very welcome and fed us extremely well, in fact the five course dinners were the best we had in France, cooked by the Marguise, Jacqueline and served by the Marquis, Herve. After dinner we gathered by the fire and were entertained by Jacqueline on the piano, who managed to get Michael to sing Sinatra's " My Way"! This gives you an idea of the amount of excellent French wine and cognac we were drinking!
Next morning, our guide, Nick de Toldi  and Herve, the Marquis took us off to the stag hunt. The master of the L'Equipage Kermaingant, as the hunt is known , is a cousin of Herve and after many introductions and shaking of hands and "Bonjours", we were formally introduced to the entire hunt as  his "American" friends. We had driven about 20 minutes into the "Foret d'Ecouvres", which is the highest national forest in this part of France.  Originally, only the King and his nobles were allowed to hunt - after the Revolution, the farmers and commoners had a great deal more access to the forests. They are a source of national pride and very well used by the population, lots of bikers and walkers. When the hunt is to take place a sign is posted "La Chasse au Cours ici aujourd'hui" and villagers come from all over to follow the hunt.  The biggest difference I can explain to American fox hunters is that they truly "ride to hunt", not the other way around. Everyone, mounted and on foot or in cars is actually hunting. They spread out to watch for the stag once the hounds have started a chase. And they offer their opinions as to where the stag has gone at every crossroads. Everyone knows the name and pedigrees for several generations of the hounds, but few know the name of their hired horse! They may have favorites but the horses are a means to travel and follow the hunt, that is all. Our horses were ex-trotters and were very good. They can trot extremely fast and it is thrilling when the French horns are heard throughout the forest and the hunt is on. We travelled on paths crisscrossing throughout the woods, catching glimpses of the stag rushing through the trees. The hounds are very spread out and very fast. We started with 36 and I seldom saw more then 2 or 3 couple at a time. After about 4 1/2 hours we seemed to have lost the hunted stag, and were quietly standing, listening for the hounds that were still missing and presumed still hunting the first stag. Eventually the huntsman appeared, with hounds and we were off to recast, hoping to  meet up with those hounds. At the end of the day, a new young stag was found but the huntsmen called hounds off as, apparently, we would have been out for many more hours than was practical. We had covered many, many miles and were happy to come upon the trailers at a new crossroads! They had all been driven to us and Michael especially, liked the tradition of handing his horse off to the livery gentleman with a pat and a thank you. Almost all the members hire their horses and they are all loaded back onto large lorries at the end. If the stag had been killed there would have been a ceremony to honor the stag with much horn blowing and story telling. Today we simply thanked all the masters and members who had been very kind to us. They expressed their dismay at the loss of the stag, but truly, it had been a remarkable day and everyone was in good spirits and eating and drinking from the picnic baskets that were waiting in the cars. Lots of wine and baguettes, cheese and chocolate.

Michael wants one of the swords that the gentleman members all wear and I think I am happier he wants one of those, rather than one of the large and usually very dented French horns. They are ancient  looking and probably difficult to play! I, too, love the tri-cornered hats the ladies wear and the gold braid that adorns the gentlemen. It is all very French and aristocratic even though the hunt is enjoyed by all walks of life. We happily went back to the chateau for a bath and another excellent five course dinner.